Slip Covers for Oven Mitts

mittsI have two oven mitts and a pot holder that are at least 15 years old, in good shape, but stained and unsightly.

originals

I thought maybe a “slipcover” for each would solve the problem.

I used recycled gift wrap to make a pattern.  Just trace around the mitt and add 1/2″ (1/4″ seam and 1/4″ to allow for thickness) along the sides.  At the top, add 1″ for a hem and for the cover to extend a little above the pad/mitt.

drawing

patterns

Whenever I have a quilting or sewing project, I collect all of the small pieces of fabric and sew them together in coordinating colors to make a flat piece of material.  Place whatever fabric you are using right sides together and pin the patterns in place.  Cut out the pieces and stitch together using 1/4″ inch seams, leaving the top open.  Turn down the top 1/4″ and again 1/4″ and stitch in place.  Clip in the space where the thumb joins (be careful not to cut into the stitching) so the mitt will be smooth in that area.

Turn the covers, press and place over the mitts and pad, allowing the hanging tab on the originals to protrude.  A good way to get the mitt cover on is to put the original mitt on your hand and then pull the cover over it as you would a mitten.

finmitt

finpad

The covers stay in place very well and can be removed for washing or for replacing with new covers – maybe even with  seasonal or holiday themes.

I love to recycle something and get some extra wear out of it!

Wire Hanger Cover

fincover1I’ve had a problem for years of wire hangers alternately fighting each other and multiplying in my closet.  Twenty-five years ago a friend made strong, non-violent hangers by combining three of them and then using some kind of crochet stitch to make a cover.  I’m still using these hangers but could never find the pattern and really don’t want to crochet.  I was hoping to find a sewing pattern for covering multiple hangers but only turned up patterns for covering plastic  or wooden hangers.  I tried a few ideas and came up with a way to simultaneously reduce the quantity of wire hangers and the quantity of fabric scraps.

You will need for each set:

  • 3 wire hangers of the same general size and shape
  • Masking tape
  • Transparent tape
  • One inch wide strip of ribbon or fabric
  • Two pieces of fabric approximately 9-1/2″ x 18″ each

Take one of the three matching hangers and place on a piece of tissue paper.  Trace on the outside of the hanger, leaving a space where the handle comes down.  Draw another line 1/2″ from the outside of the first line.  At the space add a tab about 1/2″ long.  Draw a line along the bottom about 3″  from the bottom edge of the hanger.

pattern1aPut the three hangers together and tape at various spots with masking tape, being especially careful to cover the tips of the wire handles.

hangertopWrap the handles with ribbon or fabric.  Fabric should be cut into strips with pinking shears to avoid fraying.  Start with covering the handle tips and then wrap the ribbon/fabric around the handle down to the base of the handle.  Tie and then secure with clear tape.  A bow or other embellisment could be added after the cover is on the hanger.

hangerPlace two pieces of 9-1/2″ x 18″ fabric right sides together and pin the tissue pattern to it.  Cut the fabric and sew around the sides using 1/4″ seams and leaving the tab area open.

pincoverTurn under bottom edge of fabric 1/4″ twice and stitch hem.  Turn cover and press, leaving the tabs on the inside of the cover.

sewncoverfincover2Place the cover over the taped three hangers and add a bow or other embellishment if desired.

This pattern is good for using up small remnants of fabric but can also be used on old knit tops, T-shirts, flannel shirts, etc., which offer a nice soft base for your clothes.

I made up 15 of these hanger sets in all kinds of fabric, greatly reducing my stash of hangers, fabric scrap and old clothes – also reducing my frustration at ill-behaving wire hangers.

Springtime Hoodie

When we visited Holmes County (Ohio) Amish Country last September, I saw some delicious Moda fabric that I couldn’t resist. 

I didn’t know what I was going to do with it until I started thinking about a hoodie for spring similar to the one I made for fall which I liked very much.  I had only bought one yard of each of the Moda fabrics and got enough additional Kona off-white fabric to make the jacket.  I used a pattern I found in my local quilt shop, A QUILTER’S HOODIE #0351 by A Little More Effect Pattern Company, 10736-125 Street, Edmonton T5M 0H1.  The pattern is for an unlined jacket, but I wanted to make mine reversible and basically made the jacket twice and then put it together with a reversible separating zipper.   It turned out to be very comfortable, the right weight for our Southwest Ohio spring weather, and with the colors of April.  This is one view of the hoodie.

This is the reverse side of the jacket.  I like the deep pockets.

Whenever I make a jacket, I use the scraps to make a small purse to carry in quilt shops, antique stores, malls, etc., to avoid lugging around a heavy purse.  This purse has a flip-out section for credit cards/cash and a holder for my sunglasses.

 

Gift Bags from Orphan Blocks

12bag.jpg

Most quilters seem to have a big stash of “orphan” blocks – blocks they made that turned out too big, too small, too difficult, too simple, the wrong color, pieced wrong – you get the picture.  I’ve made a few quilts and throws from blocks like these but don’t really enjoy putting together a lot of misfits.  My youngest daughter who has been a recycler, “go green” person since she was a child, had come up with a plan to make all of her gift bags which could be recycled rather than using throwaway paper.  She doesn’t like to sew and came up with an easy bag that is basically a piece of fabric folded in half, sewn along two sides, edge-stitched along the top and with a tie of some sort sewn to the back of the bag so it’s readily available for the next gift opporunity.  In our family, it’s understood that the bag can be kept by the recipient or given along with a gift on the next holiday.

I thought this might be a way to use up some of the unwanted and unappreciated quilt blocks.  The first step is to wrap a tape measure loosely around the largest part of the item to be wrapped and add 1/2″ (two 1/4″ seams) plus another 1″ for a little leeway in the bag. 

Example:  A typical American CD measures 12-1/2″ in width.  Using a 9-1/2″ unfinished block, cut a coordinating strip of fabric 4-1/2″ x 9-1/2″ (3″ plus 1/2″ for two 1/4″ seams plus 1″ for some extra leeway).  

Stitch a 1/4″ seam joining the strip to one side of the block.  Press.

9strip.jpg

Cut a 20″ piece of ribbon, rickrack, seam tape, cording – anything you might have in your sewing basket.  Place the center of the ribbon on the center of the 4-1/2 x 9-1/2″ strip, about 3-1/2″ down from the top and sew a few stitches to secure it for the tie.

Stitch the other side of the strip to the other side of the block, using a 1/4″ seam.  Press.

Keeping the pieces right-sides together, fold the strip in half lengthwise, centering the strip in the back so there is a nice view of the block on the front, and stitch along the bottom edge, using a 1/4″ seam.

9front.jpg
9back.jpg

Press the top edge down 1/4″ and zigzag a close stitch along the raw edge (.90 x 3.1 stitch).

Turn the bag and press.  Bag is ready to pack with the CD and tie with the ribbon.

9bag.jpg

Of course, any block can be used with strips  added to make the correct size.  Also, blocks can be sewn together to make the size you need.

Example:  Two 12-1/2″ unfinished blocks can be used to make a bag big enough for a book, a small toy or small pieces of clothing.  In this case no extra strip is needed. 

12blocks.jpg

Cut a 20-22″ piece of trim for the tie, and stitch it to the center of the block that is to be the back of the bag, about 3-1/2″ down from the top. 

12tie.jpg

12fintie.jpg

Place the two blocks right sides together, being careful to keep the tie out of the way and stitch along the sides and the bottom edge with a 1/4″ seam. 

Press the top edge under 1/4″ and zigzag along the raw edge (.90 x 3.1 stitch). 

Turn bag and press and another bag is ready to pack with a gift…..two less blocks in the stash and no big piece of wrapping paper in the trash.

12front.jpg

12back.jpg

Primitive Stuffed Pumpkin

whitepumpk2.gif

I’m not an accomplished craft person, but I was able to make some cute stuffed pumpkins from a free pattern on Quilt in a Day, (see update below) called the Fall Pumpkin Patch.  There’s a small amount of sewing involved, and then some winding of jute twine and gluing of silk leaves.  I used some white chenille salvaged from a damaged vintage bedspread, but any type of fabric could be used.  The size and shape of the pumpkin depends on the amount of fabric used and good directions are given.  I gave a pumpkin to each of my daughters for Halloween, with the thought that they could stay on display through Thanksgiving.

whitepumpk.gif

Update:  It was brought to my attention that the free pattern apparently is no longer available on Quilt-in-a-Day.  My personal instructions are below:

Supplies Needed:

  • 1/4 yd. pieces or fat quarters or any size pieces of fabric for the pumpkin
  • Green, brown or orange pipe cleaners
  • Tacky glue
  • Raffia strands
  • Jute twine
  • 2″ wooden stems from tree branches
  • Fall silk leaves – 2-3 per pumpkin

All of the pumpkins are made from rectangles.  They can be any size you like (9″x18″, 9″x21″, 7″x17″, etc.).  According to the dimensions they will come out short and fat or tall and skinny.

Fold rectangle in half, right sides together.  Leave a long tail of thread as you begin to sew and stitch a 1/4″ seam down the side of the rectangle.  Leave another long tail of thread attached after you finish sewing.

With a hand sewing needle, thread one tail into the needle and gather up one end of the tube from the wrong side of the fabric, 1/8″ from the bottom edge.  In other words, sew a straight line across one end 1/8″ from the edge.  Pull tightly and knot off.  Turn tube to right side.

Stuff the pumpkin with polyester stuffing or batting scraps.  With the hand sewing needle and thread tail at the other end of the pumpkin, sew a straight line across 1/8″ from the edge, pull tightly and  knot off.   The opening will be covered by the silk leaves.

Using Jute twine, leave an 8″ tail.  Starting from the top of the pumpkin, wind down the sides on the seam line to the bottom, back to the top on the other side, then turn slightly and do it again, leaving thumb or finger on top to keep twine in place.  Make 6 or 8 ridges.  Tie a knot tightly at the top and then a bow.

To decorate, glue a wooden stem into the top center opening withTacky glue.  Wind the pipe cleaner around a pencil and fold in half.  Glue the pipe cleaner into the opening.  Make a bow out of raffia and glue into the opening.  Glue 2-3 leaves to the top to cover the opening.

Display with pride.

Published in:  on October 29, 2007 at 9:38 pm Comments (3)
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Copyright Infringement – Sewing & Quilting Projects

I recently wrote a blog post about donating some items to a charity.  Included were five small wallets (Sewing) which I photographed, closed, with no details shown.  I included nothing related to the pattern in my post and linked to the website of the pattern maker. 

The pattern maker posted in comments that I was infringing on her copyright by donating the items I’d made to charity.  I was totally surprised and didn’t realize that donations of a finished article infringed on the copyright of a pattern (for which I’d paid a decent price).  In researching on the Internet, I found several websites that were very informative on this matter, especially for people who sew, quilt or do other handwork and then exhibit, sell or donate the items.  My research shows the pattern maker is correct as far as her copyright is concerned.  It seems to be a matter of whether the copyright owner chooses to enforce the law.  Here are some helpful links I found that shed more light on the issue.

I also found some pattern makers who don’t mind what sewers do with their patterns so long as they don’t copy the patterns themselves to distribute or sell.  Those pattern makers, though, do appreciate a link to their websites.  

This was an eye-opener for me.  I apologized to the pattern maker for contributing wallets made from her patterns to charity, and I told her I would not be donating items from her patterns in the future, nor from anyone else’s patterns.  It saves a lot of time to use a purchased pattern, but I’m not incapable of designing my own and have done it many times when all the features I wanted weren’t included in available patterns.

Just wanted to share as this is something for all of us to consider.